Mount Suswa sits far from any city, beneath skies all but free of light pollution. On a clear night the Milky Way does not merely appear — it arches overhead in three-dimensional depth, the kind of sky most people alive today have never actually seen. Our star-gazing sessions begin after dinner and run late into the night.

Guides point out constellations visible from the equator, explain the celestial navigation the Maasai have used for generations, and make the incomprehensible scale of what is above you feel, for once, close.